Over 200 different conversion bits and kits available now, with plans to continue adding new options!
Compatible with the widest range of existing products and popular plastic infantry kits.
Where possible components feature a peg assembly system for precise and easy dry fitting and assembly.
We've used the latest digital design methods and highest quality resin casting to achieve incredible levels of detail and quality.
Leg and Arm sets offer 10 poses for each style, and head sprues include many unique variants, so no two figures in your army need look the same!
Regiments products are designed to offer the best possible mix of flexibility and value:
Individual Sprues are available, organised in categories by product type.
Conversion Packs allow you to purchase combinations of parts for converting popular plastic miniatures, saving money compared to purchasing separate sprues.
Regiments Custom Squad Builder allows you total freedom to design your own original Regiment, picking from any available parts in the range, and adding optional extras to build your ideal combat force! There are currently 750,000+ unique combinations of parts available.
Differences among manufacturers and descriptions can cause a lot of confusion about scale. Regiments miniatures are designed in what is commonly called "28mm heroic". They are approx 30.5mm tall, and have larger heads, guns, and limbs than more "realistic" miniatures, which makes them sturdier, easier to build and paint, and look more eye catching from a distance.
Here is a scale comparison photo comparing some Regiments figures to our Afterlife and Exo-Lords ranges, as well as some popular plastic figures (Cadian Imperial Guard and Space Marine) from Games Workshop which many gamers will be familiar with.
Regiments Miniatures compared to Afterlife Commando (Top row, second from left), Exo-Lord (Top row, far right), Cadian Imperial Guard (bottom row, second from left) and Space Marine (bottom row, far right).
Cadian Imperial Guard and Space Marine miniatures are Copyright Games Workshop PLC. Images are used here for the purpose of scale comparison, which we believe constitutes fair use.
Your parts should be virtually 100% free of defects and bubbles, and have only minimal mould lines, so clean up is usually straightforward. It's easiest to remove the parts from the sprues carefully with clippers. Arms are supplied as pairs, and should be kept on their "letter" tab until they are about to be glued on a model!
Resin is reasonably easy to work with, but if you choose to use sandpaper or a file this can create hazardous dust. Work in a well ventilated area and use water on your tools to minimise dust in the air.
Resin parts can occasionally have a shiny surface from the casting process which can interfere with paint sticking, so it's best to give the parts a gentle scrub with warm water, detergent and a toothbrush, take extra care with thin or smaller parts.
DRY FITTING - We strongly recommend that at ALL stages of assembly, you test fit the parts without glue first before adding glue and making the connection permanent.
Resin parts need to be glued to other resin parts with Super Glue, please take care to avoid glueing the resin parts to your fingers, tools, desk etc.
Legs are supplied with textured tabs which fit exactly into the supplied slotta bases, and should sit flush and almost disappear when painted, but you may wish to add sand, filler or use alternative bases. The Peg on the waist joint fits Regiments torsos, but can be clipped off and smoothed if you want to use the legs with other torsos.
Torsos fit on the waist peg and can be freely rotated to various angles.
Arms are the most difficult part of the assembly process. After deciding which arms to use with a particular torso, follow these steps to ensure the best result -
Shoulder pads are supplied on a sprue which uses one-piece casting - this means there are guaranteed to be no mould line at all on the pad itself. They are attached to their "tree" with a wide but very thin section of resin. It's best to clip the tree into pairs, then when you are ready to attach a pair of pads, carefully clip the thin resin gate away from both ends and then file or sand the inner surface of the pad flat, leaving a flawless part
Depending on the arm and pose, you may find the pads do not sit quite right, and you need to remove some material from the top of the arm (where it will be hidden under the pad) before glueing it on. The best way to connect a shoulder pad is with a small blob of milliput, which acts as both gap filler and glue in one.
Heads should fit nicely into the torso ball joint, if you ensure the bottom of the neck has had the resin 'gate' removed fully. A range of head poses are possible as standard, but you can shave small amounts of resin from the neck area or side of the chin to allow some more angled poses.
Equipment, such as mags, pouches and weapon accessories can be attached.
Gap Filling - Modular Kits, even with the most careful assembly, will occasionally have small gaps where parts are joined together. They will often disappear on painting, but if you have the time and want the best results, you can use green stuff, milliput or a similar filler to fill small gaps.
Once your miniatures are ready for painting, we recommend either undercoating with a quality undercoat spray, you can also undercoat using an airbrush, if you have made sure the resin is clean. we recommend you don't undercoat resin miniatures by hand, though it is possible.